Isopod Care

Choose an Enclosure

I’d recommend 3L minimum for a starter colony of 5–20 isopods. This is to ensure there’s enough space for a humidity gradient – if the tub is too small and they need to escape the humidity, in a 3L tub or bigger, there should be enough space to do so (as long as you’re not overwatering, which I’ll get to later!).

Once the colony starts to get crowded (around 50–100 isopods) upgrade them to a bigger tub or return some to the breeder if you’d rather keep smaller colonies. I keep most of my isopods in 6L–20L tubs with 100–2000 isopods per tub, but when starting a small colony I always start smaller so that they can find each other easier.

Make sure the lid of the enclosure is airtight, as baby isopods can climb up the sides, and all ventilation is covered with fine mesh. I personally drill holes and then cover with mesh using a hot glue gun. Here is a link for the mesh I use: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BY2MBMDD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3

Ventilation

All isopods need ventilation to survive, some only a few small drilled holes on 2 sides, some need cross ventilation (all 4 sides) with big holes (3 cm+ across depending on the size of the tub) or lots of small drilled holes. It depends on the species so make sure to research the isopod’s needs when setting up a tub. Some isopods such as Ardentiella or Spanish giants such as Porcellio Magnificus are sensitive to stale air and won’t survive without enough ventilation. Whereas others such as Cubaris Panda King are fine with a few small holes on 2 ends.

During heatwaves, a gentle oscillating fan can help protect your isopods by keeping the air around their enclosure from becoming stagnant and overheated. It’s important that the airflow never blows directly on the substrate, as this can dry out the colony. Instead, use the fan to circulate room air, which helps maintain stable temperatures and prevent stale air. Monitored carefully, a fan can be a simple, safe way to keep your isopods comfortable during extreme heat.

Isopod Essentials for Nutrition

Substrate: Isopods need a proper substrate to thrive, because they actually rely on it for food as well as somewhere to live. A good mix usually has things like decaying leaves, bits of rotting wood, and other organic material, which give them nutrients and support the tiny microbes they also feed on. Some beginners make the mistake of using coco coir, which doesn’t really offer any of that, it’s pretty much just a moisture holder with no real nutritional value. On top of that, it’s very fine and doesn’t give them much structure for burrowing or hiding, and it can compact over time and cause blockages when the isopods try to eat it. I use Bugznbits isopod and millipede substrate but there’s a few good options out there!

Leaf litter: Isopods need a constant supply of leaf litter because it is a major part of their diet as well as their environment. In the wild, they primarily feed on decomposing leaves. Leaf litter also helps maintain humidity, offers shelter, and creates a natural surface for grazing. Without it, isopods can become stressed, undernourished, and less likely to reproduce, even if other food is provided. For most isopods, beech and oak leaves are ideal choices because they are both hardwoods that break down slowly, providing a steady, long-lasting food source. Not all leaves are suitable and some are toxic so make sure you check!

If you’re foraging beech or oak leaves yourself, collect only dry, fallen leaves from clean woodland areas well away from roads, farms, or anywhere that may have been treated with pesticides. Avoid damp or contaminated material, and many keepers choose to bake or freeze the leaves before use to reduce the risk of pests. If you prefer to buy them online, look for leaf litter sold specifically for bioactive or invertebrate setups, and make sure the seller clearly states the leaves are pesticide-free; checking reviews or trusted sources can also help ensure you’re getting a safe product.

Calcium: Isopods must have a constant supply of calcium to survive, they need it to build and maintain their exoskeleton, especially when moulting. Without enough calcium, you can see issues like failed moults, deformities, or weaker individuals overall. Providing a constant source, such as cuttlebone, limestone/tufa, crushed eggshell or crushed oyster shell, helps support healthy growth, reproduction, and a stable colony. I personally put cuttlebone in every enclosure as that’s the easiest for them to eat, and then I sprinkle in other options every month or so.

Protein: Isopods do need some protein to stay healthy, but only in small amounts. In their natural environment, they get it from fungi growing on decaying leaves and occasional tiny bits of animal matter. In captivity, a small supplement like a dried mealworm, a dried shrimp, a pinch of spirulina or bee pollen, or an algae wafer or 2 once every 1–2 weeks provides enough protein to support growth and reproduction without causing excess waste or mould. Too little protein can slow development and breeding, while too much can upset the balance of the enclosure, so it’s best used sparingly. For more established colonies, provide more accordingly but always aim for no wastage because wastage = mould growth.

Humidity

Humidity is one of the most important factors for keeping isopods healthy, as they breathe through gill-like structures that require moisture to function properly. Maintaining the right level of humidity ensures they can carry out normal behaviours like foraging, moulting, and reproduction. While isopods need a consistently humid environment, areas that are too wet can actually be harmful, promoting mold, bacterial overgrowth, or even causing small individuals to drown if the substrate becomes waterlogged.

This is why creating a humidity gradient within the enclosure is so important. One side should be kept moist enough to provide hiding spots and ideal conditions for moulting, while the other side should remain dry and never be sprayed, giving the isopods a safe area to rest and avoid prolonged exposure to excessive moisture. You can create this gradient by lightly misting the damp side and adding natural hides like bark, cork, or piles of leaf litter there, while leaving the dry side untouched.

For species that like lower humidity, around 45–55%, only need a small corner of moss, whereas species that like 70–80% humidity benefit from having 1/4 to 1/3 of the tub with moss. Adequate ventilation helps prevent waterlogging in the moist zone while maintaining enough humidity for the isopods. By providing this setup, you allow your colony to self-regulate, choose their preferred microclimate, and thrive in captivity. If your isopods start dying, pay attention to where in the tub they died, this should help you figure out if it could be from overwatering or underwatering.

Temperature

Temperature is an important factor for isopod health, as they are sensitive to extreme heat or cold. Most species do best in a stable, moderate range around 20–22 °C and sudden fluctuations can stress them, slow growth, or even cause deaths. Avoid placing enclosures in direct sunlight or near heaters and air conditioners, and try to keep the temperature consistent day and night. Small, gradual changes are usually fine, but maintaining a stable environment helps your isopods stay active and healthy.

Summary

Isopods need a substrate of soil, decaying leaves, and rotting wood for food and shelter, with oak or beech leaf litter as a staple. Provide a calcium source like cuttlebone for healthy moults and occasional small protein supplements. Maintain a humidity gradient – one side moist for hiding and moulting, the other dry and never sprayed – and ensure ventilation to prevent mould and stale air. Add hiding spots like bark or lotus seed pods and keep temperatures steady, usually between 20–22 °C, without big fluctuations to avoid shock. With these basics, your colony will thrive and reproduce.